Would you, too, like to beat the living crap out of whomever designed http://www.vatican.va/?
Trying to find something simple can be damn near impossible. Wouldn't you think that they'd have something really simple, like a list of popes? I even hate their choice of colors -- Brown on parchment.
Yes, I love those color combos that are low contrast that you can't read for ****.
Take the poll on the sidebar.